My Vanuatu ‘Reveal

My first sighting of the place remains vivid in my memory for two reasons, one; the stunning location – that amazing ‘reveal’ as you enter the restaurant portico and get your first glimpse of the whiteness of the beach and the 180-degree blueness of the Pacific stretching endlessly to the horizon. Two; our arrival on that particular day in early 1995 was equally spectacular. We were on a trip sponsored by the Vanuatu tourism authorities as we were writing a travel piece for an Australian glossy. Having been to Vanuatu several times before, we assured them we were quite happy to get ourselves around and didn’t require supervision or a chaperone. They happily agreed but suggested they’d like us to take one excursion to ‘somewhere new’ for lunch.

A couple of days later a 1950s stretched white Cadillac arrived to transport us from Le Lagon Resort to the ‘somewhere new’. Once ensconced in the capacious and opulent rear seats among the crystal glassware and red leather we decided the previous occupant had most likely been Elvis. Restrained, it wasn’t, and Vanuatu, it certainly wasn’t! Fortunately the tinted windows protected our delicate egos and shielded us from, what I’m sure was, much pointing and amused curiosity from the locals.

After what seemed liked hours of snaking our way over rugged dirt roads completely unsuited to our boulevardloving limo we were delivered* almost to our table at the ‘somewhere new’, much to delight of the assembled lunch guests at this modest little beachfront eatery and resort. I’m sure it was to their great disappointment the couple emerging from the plushness of the cabin were two completely anonymous and slightly embarrassed journalists with no say as to their choice of ride.

The day unfolded perfectly in spite of any unfulfilled expectations of us. We met the creator and proprietor, Susan Barnes, we also met several other fellow patrons and ended the evening having drinks on the deck of La Violante a 100-year old charter yacht in Port Vila harbour courtesyof Christiana Kaluscha (our food writer) and her partner. Twenty something years later we all remain firm friends and coincidently neighbours in both Vanuatu and Sydney.

That’s Vanuatu and Tamanu in particular. That is, Tamanu on the Beach at Whitesands which is in fact only about a 20-minute drive from town in a more appropriate vehicle, which went on to become one of Vanuatu’s most celebrated eateries and boutique resorts with an almost mythical reputation for white linen and long lunches.

The revelation of ‘somewhere new’ on that day was significant in our decision to buy land at Whitesands, build a house and become residents of Vanuatu. So not only does it hold a revered place in my memory, it has a lot to live up to if it’s to retain its status as a home away from home. It’s always been somewhere I’ve been totally at ease at, alone, dining à deux, or as part of many a large rowdy and elongated gathering which regularly stretched from lunch to dinner and beyond with many spontaneous extra guests joining the table along the way.

As the only drinking, dining and accommodation option out that way for many years it has remained a firm favourite having stayed there many times over the years prior to building our own place and sometimes eating there three times a day for weeks on end, the food was well tested and never came up wanting.

The à la carte menu has always been a great mix of familiar favourites along with new additions while the blackboard ensured the freshest of seasonal produce was on offer as it was delivered to the kitchen. While the food changed with the seasons the staff remained a constant with many having been in situ since the beginning, with their knowledge of their customers and adroitly seamless service only enhancing the sense of familiarity and comfort.

Now in the competent hands of an accomplished group of investors the place has undergone a remarkable renaissance and reemerged bigger, better and more beautiful than before.

It now has what was always the intention, more villas, a porte cochère to introduce the view, an in-ground swimming pool along with a few of private plunge pools attached to luxury villas, revitalised décor in crisp blue and white to reflect what’s outside the white louvred shutters along with lavishly upgraded bathrooms and a wedding ‘chapel’ (it’s always been a sought-after wedding location) or function pavilion on the edge of the beach, all of which reflects the original sophisticated simplicity of its creator with a menu, expanded wine list and management to match.

But I’m biased, as I sit here typing this on my laptop on my own verandah (a ten-minute walk away along the beach), I’m struck by the thought that in spite of now having stared for innumerable hours at the same ocean view I encountered 28 years ago, I never tire of it and given my home away from home is still doing what it did I can’t imagine tiring of that either. Indeed I have a booking for tonight’s family dinner – and I know that among my menu choices there’s still a Madras curry, coconut prawns and at the moment plenty of yellowfin tuna and lobster straight from the sea. Third meal there this week after an enforced COVID absence of nearly three years. Can’t be a better recommendation than that!

* My ‘real’ arrival at Tamanu happened a long time later when the irrepressible Gerry and Jan Smelik were in charge and I was delivered courtesy of my Narpow Point neighbours in the tray of a ute. A ‘proper’ Vanuatu local entrance at last!