From the Ivory Coast to Paradise

It’s a long way from the dangers of the Ivory Coast in West Africa to the sleepy island of Tulagi in Solomon Islands, but that’s where Kiwi expats Bob and Yvie Norton found themselves after more than 20 years in the airforce.

“We had worked all over the place before I moved to the Solomons to work for Toll as the country manager,” Bob explained.

“Yvie and I were working in Sudan when I took the contract in Honiara, she moved to Abidjan, Ivory Coast and ended up getting caught in the middle of their civil war.

“One day she rang saying she was headed for the border and would call me when she made it. I didn’t hear from her for three days and it was unbearable. When she finally made it, I said that’s it – you’re coming here to the Solomons.”

For the first year, the reunited couple spent their weekends learning to dive and fell in love with the sport, which is easy to do in the Solomons.

“When RAMSI (Regional Assistance Mission to Solomon Islands) was winding down, Toll wanted to move me to Canberra, and I thought no way!” Bob laughed.

“We’d been diving a bit with the Tulagi crew and saw an opportunity to take over the only hotel on the island – Raiders.”

Bob and Yvie have completely turned Raiders hotel around, and refurbished all eight rooms, with a total of 14 beds, comprising three ensuite and five standard rooms, all featuring ensemble beds, soft linens and air conditioning.

A choice of fresh breakfasts are made daily to your liking, and quite often, freshly caught kingfish will feature on the lunch time or dinner menu – most often caught that day by Bob himself.

Tulagi offers plenty of activities, but is also perfect for relaxing and doing nothing at all. The large airy and shaded verandah features hammocks and seats overlooking the small coral garden right in front of the inn. Children will be entertained snorkelling out the front and playing on the small white sandy beach next to the verandah. The inn also has a kayak and a stand up paddle board for those looking for a little adventure.

But it’s the diving I had come to Tulagi for and Raiders’ dive shop is full of modern dive equipment and on the doorstep of some of the regions best diving.

The Solomon’s is known for its wreck diving, the Iron Bottom Sound was named by Allied troops during World War II because of the many planes and ships sunk there during the battle for Guadalcanal. Today it attracts divers from all over the world, but not as many as you would expect for a region with some of the best diving in the world.

I took a banana boat from Honiara’s yacht club over to Tulagi; you can organise this through the Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau if you’re heading over for a day trip, or Raiders will pick you up if you’re staying there.

The crossing of Iron Bottom Sound is quite spectacular, with the neighbouring islands of Savo and Malaita visible on a clear day. The seas are generally calm, but if it’s a sunny day go prepared with hat, towel for shelter and sunscreen as often the boats have no cover.

An hour after departing Honiara the nation’s former capital Tulagi (during British rule from 1896 to 1942) comes into view. A scattering of buildings along the water and up in the hills, ruins of old commercial buildings and a wharf shows this once bustling town has a rich history.

Tulagi was attacked by the Japanese in May 1942 with Allied forces fighting back and failing to regain control of the small island. This attack lead to the devastating Battle of Guadalcanal campaign.

Bob took me on two dives, the stunning Twin Tunnels lava tubes and the wreck of the Catalina seaplane. Both were magical and I wished I had time to see more. Whilst a day trip is possible, staying at Raiders gives divers the chance to experience so much more than just the underwater world.

Should you wish to experience life in a typical village, Bob and Yvie will happily arrange to take you and your travel companions to a nearby village by hotel boat, where they have an arrangement to provide the village with some financial assistance in return for guests being welcomed for a day trip.

Upon arrival, the local villagers will eagerly scale a nearby coconut palm to husk fresh drinking coconuts, while the happy carefree pikininis gather around to watch and giggle at the
visitors.

At the end of the day, after a freshly cooked dinner and cold beer, you can wash the day away, climb into the most comfortable of beds and drift off to sleep in the luxury of cool air conditioning, ready and fresh to wake up the next day and do it all over again.

To book your next stay at Raiders Hotel & Dive Tulagi, please call (677) 32 070 or mobile (677) 749 4185 or email raidershotel@solomon.com.sb for more information, visit www.radiershotel.com